Shilpi Sansthan is an NGO in Sanganer jaipur rajasthan india that for 14 years has worked in the economic development of the surrounding rural area as well as the continued survival and competitiveness of hand-made textiles. It is supported by 13 members and run by 3 officers. All of these are members of the local textile business community and help to financially support the NGO. The organization sees traditional textile manufacturing methods as under threat, and is working to save the mand provide livelihood to the local area at the sametime. This is done through providing a common front for some members of the local textile community and the organization and support of 12 self-help groups(SHGs) set up in villages around Sanganer. These groups have been taught to do hand work on textiles and sell them to the local textile distributors. The NGO also makes connections between these labor forces and textile distributors, and connections between the distributors them selves with the goal of helping all. It was founded by its current secretary Brij BallabhUdaiwal, who also owns a local textile distributor,Shilpi House of Textiles. This brings a certain business aspect to the NGO and its goals, although the NGO itself, however, cannot officially give financial support to the workers because of its status as a non-profit organization. Instead it organizes the groups and connects them to buyers, or Brij buys the textiles through Shilpi House of Textiles. Shilpi Sansthan’s SHGs are made up entirely of women from the local farming communities who have come to Brij in order to start SHGs to create additional income. They receive training and support to do handwork on textiles and sell them to local distributors. The training period of each one of these groups lasts three years, during which time Brij buys the textiles himself though his business or finds other buyers. After this period it is the SHG’s own responsibility to find buyers and to get their fabric. Each SHG has their own officers who run the group ona day-by-day basis, and are trained to handle most of the marketing and buying. Even after the training period, Shilpi Sansthan also provides them with access to insurance at reduced premiums (partially paid for by Shilpi Sansthan) and helps them in dealing with banks. Since farming does not always offer security in Rajasthan, the women’s involvement with the SHGs provides some security in their livelihood.
[1] The training also ensures that even if the NGO disappeared, the women could still take care of themselves. The women in the SHGs said that if they were n’t here they would be in the fields; there are very few other options for additional employment inthe area.
[2] Given Brij’s involvement with the textile industry in Sanganer, one of the main goals of the NGO is to develop the textile sector. He sees his work as giving back to the industry that has made him successful.
[3] Many workers and distributors in Sanganer work alone, without banding together to market their product. This means that instead of sharing resourceson development and promotion or having a common platform with which to lobby the government, everyone suffers.
[4] Brij feels that a non-profit organization that could establish these links was needed in Sanganer. Shilpi Sansthan’s members include businessmen from theSanganer and Bagru areas that support this idea and through it can work together as well as help out local, poor farming families earn a better livelihood. However, the two goals seem to be in conflict, as if the distributors pay the workers living wages, it cuts down on the profit of the very crafts sector Brij is trying to promote. This is where the non-profit aspect of Brij’s work comes in, through the organization. Members are getting access to a labor source. This source is already trained and organized to provide the business what it needs. Also, the organization provides common benefits to the members such as support in technical issues, pollution issues,and promotional issues.
[5] At the same time the labor force is organized into more powerful blocks and given access to benefits such as health care. Since the business people inShilpi Sansthan are saving money on promotion and development by joining forces in the NGO, which need not turn a profit, and are getting access top re-trained labor, money is supposedly left to better pay the workers and to make hand-made textiles more competitive on the market.
[6] It is not a perfect fix, and one or both of the goals probably suffer, as the members involved are still using business profits to support the organization, but it is one way of reconciling the two goals, and possibly ensuring the continued competitiveness of hand-made textiles. Shilpi Sansthan is also concerned with the heritage aspect of its work. “Our aim is to preserve this industry in this particular area, without this what can we do, it’s our bread and butter, it is necessary to preserve this.”
[7] The hand-made textiles with which Brij are involved are under threat, and this work supports him and the other members of Shilpi Sansthan and provides livelihood for many of the people around Sanganer. Even if he and others must sacrifice some short-term profit, they see it as worth it to preserve the industry as a whole. Brij sees the heritage as the work itself, the techniques and the motifs developed over thousands of years. To him these need to keep developing while keeping parts of their old selves. “We are working with hand-block textiles in Sanganer,so we are going to try to preserve our old heritage, like old textiles and old methods, but how can we develop them? In the past there were modifications in printing tables, in blocks, modifications in printing methods…we don’t want to leave [traditional techniques], without them we can’t survive, without any traditional design aspect, without any heritage…modern techniques and designs, but along side old techniques and motifs.”
[8]So to Brij, part of the reason for working with textiles is their history and what they have been, but also what they are becoming, so long as there is acontinuity. They would lose their values as something to be produced if not for some of the heritage aspects, but heritage doesn’t keep them from going forward in a way to help others. The sustainability of the industry and of the people involved, from the distributor to the workers, depends on them being able to work together to make the industry survive and make it competitive with other industries. Through bringing new ideas and modes of working together to Sanganer, it may be possible to bridge conflicting goals. Improving the way business is done in such away that workers benefit, and ensuring the sustainability of the crafts skills through which the yearn a livelihood.
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